The inspection

Every vehicle we retail passes a multi-point inspection before it reaches the lot. Anything found outside specification is repaired, or the vehicle does not get retailed — it goes to auction instead.

What we check

• Brakes — pad and rotor thickness measured, calipers, hoses, fluid condition and level.
• Tyres — tread depth measured on all four, date codes checked, wear pattern read for alignment and suspension clues.
• Suspension and steering — struts, bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and a road test for pull and vibration.
• Fluids — engine oil, coolant, transmission, brake, power steering and differential, checked for level, colour and contamination.
• Cooling system — pressure test, hoses, radiator, thermostat operation. Most catastrophic engine failures start as an overheating event.
• Battery and charging — load test, terminals, alternator output.
• Drivetrain — CV joints, boots, driveshafts, differential, transfer case on 4WD.
• Electrical — every exterior and interior light, wipers, windows, locks, mirrors, seat adjusters, infotainment and cameras.
• HVAC — measured vent temperature at full cold and full hot.
• Full diagnostic scan — stored codes, pending codes, readiness monitors and any manufacturer-specific fault records.
• Structure — panel gaps, paint depth inconsistencies and undercarriage examination for previous collision repair.

Bring us a car you are buying elsewhere

We run the same inspection as a paid service for cars you are considering from other dealers or private sellers, and we will give you the report straight. This is the highest-return money in the entire buying process — a couple of hundred dollars that regularly saves thousands.

Do it yourself first

Before you pay anyone, our 40-point walkaround checklist filters out most bad cars in twenty minutes. Use it to decide which cars deserve a professional inspection.